The most important thing about cloth pads......

The most important thing in cloth pads is THE CORE. This is the real meat behind your cloth menstrual pad. After all--- it serves a purpose other than being decoration for your underwear! Who knew?! Ha! Just kidding. So how do you decide what core material to work with?

The options are limitless. This is hardly an exhaustive list, but it's a start :)

Layering will be described as Liner/ Regular Flow/ Heavy Flow/ Post Partum

• Cotton Flannel- 2/4/6/8 By far one of the most common materials used for cores. Unfortunately, it's quite bulky, the quality isn't the same depending on your source. It's very absorbent, and very common. With a coupon you can easily buy flannel in the 4$ a yard range at popular chain stores. Depending on your source the thickness and absorbency will vary. The general guidelines I recommend is using 2 layers for every step up in absorbency.
• Diaper Flannel - 1/3/5/7 Is a thicker, often double napped flannel. It tends to be a little thicker and sturdier. Usually you can get by with less layers than standard flannel.
• Cotton Terry/Toweling - 1/2/3/4 This can be as simple as old towels or washcloths. Or you can buy it by the yard at any popular fabric store. 
• Hemp Terry/Fleece - 1/2/3/4 usually available at online specialty stores. This fabric is excellent at absorbing and holding liquids. It absorbs slowest of all the options I am aware of, and also dries slowest. But, be weight it is rumored to hold the most.  
• Cotton Fleece - 1/2/3/4 usually sold as sweatshirt fleece. 
• Microfiber Terry - 1/2/3/4 this fabric absolutely should never be against your skin. Inside a cloth pad it is totally fine. May have compression leaks.
• Zorb 1/1/2/2or3 Zorb is a specialty fabric only available online.
• Bamboo Fleece 1/2/3/4
• Heavy Bamboo Fleece 1/2/3/3

How to make a Cloth Menstrual Pad with Hidden PUL

Sometimes people like the security of PUL, but are worried about how it feels slick and slippery. Is it going to move around? Sometimes people want to use a specialty fabric against the body and a pretty fabric on bottom. This is when you would use  Hidden PUL.

Your first step is to attach your core to the underside of your pad topper. This won't be visible, but the stitches attaching it to the top layer will be visible, so stitch carefully. Take it slow. If you want to add flow stitches, this is when you would do it. I like to cut out my topper fabric with a BIG margin, and trace my sewing line onto the underside of my pad topper, center the core, and stitch around the outside edge. I use Zorb and SHOBF for my cores, but there are many options (blog post coming). Make sure your core is at least a centimeter smaller than your sewing line so keep your pad trim. I line up the outside edge of my presser foot on the outside of the core and follow that as a guide.

 

 Next you layer your pad. The red layer is the topper, with the visible side facing down, and the core facing up. After that is your bottom fabric, with the pretty side facing up. That means that both visible sides are facing each other. On the very bottom is the PUL. You want the shinny side facing down. If you are having trouble working with PUL try using a walking foot.

Now is when I pin the layers together to prevent shifting. I use a few carefully placed pins OUTSIDE THE SEWING AREA. You can pin inside, but your will risk having leaks in your PUL. If you prefer to cut out your patterns with a small seam allowance, so each layer is the same size exactly, you can use wonder clips, binder clips, or mini clothes pins to hold the layers together.

It's time to sew the body layers together. Here I am stitching on the sewing line.

 Don't forget to leave an opening to turn your pad right side out!! I like at least 2.5 finger's width.

Now that the layers are sewn together I do a final check to make sure all the layers are caught.

This is the point I trim the pad down to it's final size. I trim the edges using pinking shears, leaving a small seam allowance. You don't need pinking shears, but if you use regular scisors make sure to clip your corners. I also make sure there's extra material at the turning spot to easily tuck it in.

 

 

 Working through the turning hole go ahead and flip your pad right sides out. We joke about how this is birthing a pad ;-)

Everyone has their favorite tool to make sure all the corners and edges are pushed all the way through. I like to use angle headed tweezers. I know many people use drumsticks or even chopsticks. Whatever you use, make sure it doesn't have a pointed end, or you will end up pushing it THROUGH the fabric, making a hole. I use the tweezers to carefully pull out stubborn spots.

Now I tuck in the turning hole, making it nice and neat, folding the extra fabric inside.

Wow! so perfect! Practice makes perfect. This is when I admire my work ;-)

Next up: topstitching.

I like to line up the edge of the pad a long a certain spot on the presser foot. This helps keep the stitching neat an evenly spaced. Here I am pointing to the spot with my pin. I watch this place, and don't watch the needle at all.

To keep your pad looking professional... CLIP YOUR THREADS! :-)

 
Now you add your closure. I am using a Kam Snap Table press. You can use hand pliers, buttons, or whatever you like.

 

 

All done!  Do you have questions? Please comment below!

 

PUL in Cloth Pads, do you need it?

No! Of course not! There’s a bunch of different ways to make cloth pads. Some, don’t even have waterproofing at all! What type of cloth pad you use will depend on your budget and preferences.
 

Common types of waterproofing are:

PUL

Heavy Polyester Fleece*

Windpro Fleece

Ripstop Nylon

Wool*

*Note that often this will only repel liquids to a point, as always water test your fabrics before use!

If you want a pad that is super comfortable, without using waterproofing at all, just increase your absorbency. To make a cloth pad only using Cotton Flannel, I would recommend using the pocket pad style of pad. Make insertable layers and add more or less depending on what flow you need. Typically for flannel layering would be 2= liner, 4= regular, 6= heavy, and 8 = postpartum. For a non-waterproof pad maybe you’d use something like 2= liner, 6= regular 9 = heavy and 12 = postpartum. More on pocket pads here (post to come!). Zorb is not a good option for this sort of pad due to the possibility of compression leaks. Cotton, Bamboo, and Hemp are ideal fabrics for this sort of pad.